This is the third in a series of posts in which I explore the wonderful world of Port wines, in particular the class known as Aged Tawny Port. For more about this project, see the Introduction.

I may not have known much about Port when I decided to undertake this voyage, but I did know that one of my first destinations would be this 20-year-old tawny from Sandeman, a venerable Port name whose roots go back to the 1790s. Sandeman was the first Port brand I ever heard of, and the only one I could name up until a few months ago. That’s almost entirely due to the company’s iconic advertising campaigns of the 1920s, which culminated in the figure of “The Don,” a shadowy, alluring man who remains the Sandeman trademark to this day. The Don is to Port what Bibendum the Michelin Man is to tires: the instantly recognizable embodiment of his industry. His cloaked, faceless form promises mystery, worldliness and even a little danger. How could I not sample his favorite wine?

But enough about the marketing. Let’s get down to reality: this stuff is good. Very, very good. Pale orange in color, the first glass tantalized my nose with a strong, fruity aroma. My initial impression was of peach, but over time I began to pick up more of a cherry or plum tone that also presented itself on the tongue.

This is a very forward wine, declaring its intentions the instant it hits the taste buds. It’s lively, a bit sharp, and quite sweet. Like the Niepoort 20, it has a long, decadent finish. But while the Niepoort kept evolving on the palate as it lingered, the Sandeman sustains a single, unwavering note that slowly fades away.

The Sandeman 20 is wonderfully drinkable. I take small servings and short sips as a rule, but again and again I found I’d taken a larger sip than I thought, finished off the glass faster than I expected, and had to really restrain myself from going back for more. It pairs well with dark chocolate and fruit, but I liked it best with salty cheeses, which successfully countered the sweetness of the Port. If there’s a downside to the Sandeman, it might be that it’s just a tad too sweet for my taste: I don’t think I’d enjoy it nearly as much without food.

Most of the better-stocked wine merchants in my area had this on the shelf (including, surprisingly, one supermarket), with prices averaging a little under $50. I’d still prefer the Niepoort if given a choice, but the Sandeman 20 lived up to its billing, and I’ll definitely return to it in the future.

Learn more: www.sandeman.eu